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    • 专利摘要:
    The invention relates to a method and a system for the interactive design of garments. A user creates a request on the computer for the planning of an item of clothing (101), the body mass for the item of clothing being entered (102). These dimensions are compared with sample dimensions stored in a database (103). A three-dimensional mannequin is created based on the body mass (104). The individual properties of the body are analyzed using the model of the three-dimensional mannequin, taking into account soft tissue, fixed skeletal points, body shape and body posture (106). Using a pattern algorithm, the computer now gradually creates the item of clothing (107): This includes the creation of a graphic construction of the item of clothing with reference points taking into account the entered body mass (1071) and the computer constructing patterns for the item of clothing on the basis of the reference points (1072 ). Markings, notches, reference lines and text comments are made on the pattern by the computer. The support points are recalculated in order to identify intersection points of clothing elements and seams that can be combined (108). The fit of the garment (109) and the pattern (110) are verified by the computer. The cutting patterns are finally exported in a machine-readable format (111).
    公开号:CH714038B1
    申请号:CH01517/18
    申请日:2016-06-15
    公开日:2021-07-30
    发明作者:Valerievna Krivonosova Nataliia
    申请人:Valerievna Krivonosova Nataliia；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    TECHNICAL PART
    The pending invention relates to the interactive planning systems, in particular systems for the planning of garments for the development of patterns and for the sharing of the pattern by the above system users.
    STATE OF THE ART
    The modern state of technology has several systems for planning the garments.
    The document US 2014277663 (GUPTA NEIL ROHIN [US]; EREMENKO PAUL [US], 09/18/2014) contains the computer-aided system for bespoke tailoring and pattern preparation based on a software application. The system enables the design and adaptation of the garments on the basis of a virtual model of the user built by laser scanning. The system contains variants of the cutting patterns that can be adapted according to the user's wishes. The system also includes a database for fabrics, threads, labels, and the like, and makes it possible to determine the optimal amount of fabric that is used in the manufacture of the garment. The system also offers the possibility of selling patterns or finished goods models.
    From the document US 2008249652 (BURR ELIZABETH [US], 09.10.2008) a system for planning the garments and methods with a CAD application that is linked to the automated sewing tools is known. Digital cutting patterns are either developed manually on the basis of the user measurements taken or the sizes entered by the user, or they are developed automatically on the basis of the basic design variants.
    From the document US 20140163718 (Myung Hoe Koo, 06/12/2014) a method for planning the items of clothing on the basis of a web system with which the items of clothing can be selected worldwide is known. The system enables the output of the clothing pattern based on the selected design of the garments, as well as adapting the sizes and design to the requirements of the user.
    Various systems for the pattern exchange, in particular for project sales between users and companies in the context of a customer server system for clothing tailoring are known.
    From the document US 20030050864 (Koninklijke Philips NV, 03/13/2003) a system for online clothing shopping on the Internet with the module for the visualization of the items of clothing on a virtual mannequin is known. The system uses a software that enables clothing selection and shopping through the choice of design and size input.
    The publication EA 010039 ([RU] "Genkej Fund for investment project accompaniment" non-profit organization /, 06/30/2008) provides a method of selling goods and / or providing services using remote and local access to the information resources of the seller, wherein the buyer selects a good / service provisionally and forwards customer parameters and / or goods parameters with which the buyer had provisionally selected a good and / or service to the seller. The seller builds a digital model based on the goods or service value input selected temporarily by the customer, which represents the external appearance offered and / or other features of the selected goods, possibly results of the selected service, based on the customer information received. The received digital model is forwarded to the customer via the telecommunications network and the customer decides on the basis of this to purchase the selected goods, if necessary the service, and notifies the seller of his decision. The seller sends the selected goods to the customer and / or provides the selected service.
    From the document US 20100030578 (DRESSBOT Inc., 02/04/2010) the system for clothing selection and trade is based on the choice of models from the file and input of the sizes according to the respective standard or according to the photo-realistic photo, if necessary Video presentation known. The system is not used for the design of the garments, but allows viewing and adjustment of the garment patterns. The system also includes an assessment module that is set according to customer preferences, e.g. size compliance.
    SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
    The current technical problem is the development of a user-friendly system for planning the garments, which, in addition to the construction of the highly precise cutting patterns, would also allow virtual adaptation of a garment to a 3D mannequin, which is developed according to a minimum set of the required size features.
    The technical result is the increased accuracy in the sense of the conformity of the designed garment with the physique of a system user by comparing the size features that the user enters with the body measurement file and their additional conversion and expansion of the functional options that an online sewing instructions under Use of the integrated software module that provides the lexical interpreter.
    In the first preferred embodiment of the pending invention, a method of interactive project planning of items of clothing is claimed. This method includes the features of claim 1.
    In a further embodiment variant, the sample dimensions are selected from a database which contains a total of the dimensions, broken down according to gender and age groups.
    In a further embodiment variant, the general dimensions entered are checked by comparing them with a respective gender and age group.
    In a further embodiment variant, a 3D mannequin is additionally built according to a photograph of the person.
    In a further embodiment variant, the body dimensions of the human body are calculated on the basis of the photo.
    In a further embodiment variant, each sequence is implemented in text form by a lexical interpreter as part of an algorithm.
    In a further embodiment variant, a video sequence of individual images is also formed, with each of the individual images relating to the respective sequence of the algorithm.
    In a further embodiment variant, a parts list for the respective item of clothing is also created.
    In a further embodiment variant, the parts list is created with the aid of the machine evaluation of the algorithm of the pattern of the garment.
    In a further embodiment variant, the amount of material required to manufacture the item of clothing and / or a detail of the item of clothing is also calculated.
    In a further embodiment, additional information is attached to the pattern.
    In a further embodiment variant, the exported cutting patterns are cut onto one sheet or several sheets with a nominal size.
    In accordance with the invention, a system for the interactive planning of items of clothing is claimed with the features of claim 14.
    In a further embodiment variant, there is also a module for recalculating the dimensions of the cutting pattern, which recalculates the dimensions of the cutting pattern.
    In a further embodiment variant, there is also a module for a trading center module.
    In a further embodiment variant, there is also a module for the creation of interactive sewing instructions for garments based on the algorithm of the pattern.
    In a further embodiment variant, the sewing instructions are created with the aid of the lexical interpreter, which represents the steps of the algorithm in text form.
    In a further embodiment variant, there is also a module for a video recording of the execution of the algorithm.
    In a further embodiment there is a module for calculating the amount of material that is necessary to create the item of clothing and / or a detail of the item of clothing.
    In a further embodiment variant, the trading center module contains a database of the pattern patterns and interactive instructions that have been created.
    BRIEF LIST OF FIGURES
    In Fig. 1, the general scheme for the execution of the pending method is shown. 2 shows a sample window of the interface for the selection of the features. In Fig. 3, the checking sequence of the entered size features is shown. In FIGS. 4 and 5, the pattern sequence of the construction of a 3D mannequin based on a photo is shown. FIGS. 6 and 7 show the pattern sequence for the post-calculation of the size features on the basis of a 3D mannequin. In Fig. 8, a finished 3D sample mannequin is shown. FIG. 9 shows a sample sequence for processing the cutting algorithm. In FIGS. 10 and 11, the sample list of details for the section of the product is shown. In Fig. 12 is a sample of the sequence structure for setting up the brand is shown. In FIGS. 13 and 14, the variants of the registered system are shown. The diagram of the elements of the Internet resource is shown in FIG.
    CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
    In Fig. 1, the general scheme of the execution of the method 100 is shown for planning the garments.
    The system for planning the garments receives the customer request for the planning of the garments in the stage 101.
    The original retrieval can relate to a user logging into the system using an Internet browser on the computer.
    In stage 102, the user inputs the height characteristics according to which an item of clothing is manufactured. FIG. 2 shows the pattern sequence for the selection of the primary size features. The characteristics can be entered either by selecting the characteristics from the standardized size table 201 or by entering the individual body sizes 202.
    The system user can enter the required number of body sizes for further clothing design such as height, chest circumference, underbust area circumference, waist and hip circumference as well as hip width and other auxiliary features.
    In stage 103 (FIG. 3), the correct user input of the general size characteristics is checked in stage 102.
    After the user submits the size features for editing, the size features are retrieved from the size features file 150. File 150 lists the size characteristics of 7 strength groups for a wide range of heights. These are based on the actual dimensions, statistically calculated approximately. The system complements and expands them through mathematical calculations and the size characteristics by the neighboring size groups (girls / women, boys / men), taking into account the age changes in posture and soft tissues.
    A set of the existing typical leading sizing body types is initially selected. Among them, the approximate calculation method is used to select those types that match the set of size characteristics if they are between some body types. Empirical corrections are taken into account; each correction is proportionately adapted to the respective size characteristic. Correlative size features such as side elevations after changing the elevation etc. are then calculated again. Circumferential sizes are taken into account when recalculating the cracks.
    So, the system reports a following error if the user enters a 170 cm sleeve length:Sleeve length = 170 (user input)
    System feedback reads: The size input is 2.27 times the statistical value. Please check.
    If the size is between the typical body types, the set of size features based on the supporting bones and verticals is calculated by converting the relationships between the similar size features.
    [0044] Circumference values are determined by mathematical methods (straight, curved and total assignment as well as empirical and theoretical regression according to the "measurement typology of the population with anatomical principles and P 17 morphology" / TN Dunajewskaja, Je.B. Koblakowa, GS Iwlewa, RW Lewlewa) as well as according to the 3D mannequin (specification of the curved line length after cracks and side tears and soft tissue circumference values).
    In stage 104, the three-dimensional (3D) mannequin is built on the basis of the size characteristic inputs of the user and their additional verification.
    The individual 3D mannequin is designed according to the series of calculations of the size features of the user based on the file of the size features 150. Six size groups are separated out in the system, including 5 anthropological groups: 1) women 2) men 3) small children (up to 86 cm tall) 4) girls (86 to 188 cm tall) 5) boys (86 to 188 cm tall) 6 dolls (an open size group for dolls whose size values do not comply with the standardized anthropometric rules). Within this group, only the doll type (barbie) has to be selected and the respective mannequin designed. Changing the size values and empirical corrections are impossible for this group).
    The following basic size features, which a person can measure at home with sufficient accuracy, are to be entered for the calculation: 1. Height 2. Chest circumference 3. Underbust area circumference (only for women size group) 4. Waist circumference 5. Hip circumference without abdominal size
    Auxiliary variables are also to be entered, such as 6. hip circumference with abdominal size 7. neck circumference 8. upper arm circumference 9. head circumference
    In contrast to the known methods of 3D scanning of the user's body with the help of special equipment (3D laser scanner), the recording of the body with a referential lens and the recording of the body in front of an orthogonal network, the registered method offers the Specification of the dimensions based on the height of a person and the position of the skeletal support points, which the user can determine precisely with the help of a photo (Fig. 4-5).
    The features can be corrected after one photo (from the front), after two photos (from the front and from the back) and after three photos (from the front, from the side and from the back). There is the only requirement for the photo - you have to position the camera in relation to the floor and the object in such a way that the distortion of the image is minimal; The distance is recommended that is the same as the height values, the height should be equal to half the height. Depending on the number of photos, the features are corrected by comparing the various sets of features, however sufficient accuracy is achieved in all cases thanks to the extensive database of standard bodies.
    After the construction of the 3D mannequin and the correction of the dimensional parameters, the system allows them to be entered in the user account for subsequent use (planning and trying on).
    It is also possible to export the file for printing the mannequin with the 3D printer in real size.
    The mannequin is built in three stages: 1) Development of a design sketch, where the shape of the mannequin is recalculated in two projections on the tears of the body: in the transversely perpendicular and in the longest perpendicular projections; the main projection dimensions and diameters of the mannequins are coordinated, and the edge lines of the mannequin are developed; 2) Construction of the drawings of the mannequin cuts, approximation of the cut outlines with the regular curves and assignment of these curves using graphical and computational methods. In the technical design stage, the cuts of the mannequin are developed on the basis of the average outlines of the standard body structure with consideration for the posture; 3) restoration of the surface as a whole.
    In step 105, the dimensional parameters are corrected on the basis of the built-up 3D mannequin.
    First, horizontal areas of heights are determined vertically on the basis of the dimensional parameters (Fig. 6). Then vertical surfaces are determined which share horizontal surfaces in connection with the frontal projections of the body by taking half of the dimensional parameter on both sides (perpendiculars xr and xl) of the axial perpendicular, using transverse diameters.
    When building a mannequin and converting the dimensional parameters on this basis, the system recognizes the dimensional parameters that can change depending on the position of the soft tissue (e.g. height of the nipple point or the height of the belt line (FIG. 7). The remaining skeleton points are given as fixed values for the mannequin.
    Furthermore, the position of the support points of the mannequin is corrected according to the sagittal diameters, vertical Ov from the front, Oh from the rear.
    In step 106 the features of the body for which the garment is being determined are analyzed. In particular, the type of posture, curvature of the body, inclination of the shoulders, position of the fatty tissue, degree of muscle development of the support belt, etc. are determined.
    These individual parameters are taken into account with the aid of the built-up 3D mannequin.
    In step 107, the algorithm of the article cut is built on the basis of the dimension parameters entered in step 102. This stage is fulfilled with the participation of the user and the software and hardware platform that implements the main functions of the registered procedure.
    For the description and the structure of the pattern pattern of the clothing products, a simple specialized language is used in the system for the inclusion of the method of description and the structure of the pattern (programming language of the sewing cuts), the geometric structures with the help of a set of instructions, identifiers ( Object properties), control structures (conditional instructions and cyclical structures).
    In contrast to the existing CAD systems, there are no visual tools with the graphic objects, or they are restricted to receiving the designation and properties of the object. For example, the object name is displayed by double-clicking the object in the code window. When you press the "Line" key, a help line appears in the code windowline (point, point) added;Similar to the programming languages, we will name the rules for including the description of the clothing products as the syntax and semantics of the language, the individual elementary actions as instructions, and the text description of the algorithm as a program analog.
    Some different evaluators of the cutting algorithm allow the following:Immediately display the cut on the screen;to play the process of displaying the cut as an animation film in its entirety or up to the current position of the blinker in the code window - to search for errors in the course of construction (errors in closing the dart, shifting the cut at the wrong angle);Automatically a master class as a video or in the form of an e-book on this sewing method with the commentary in the course of the animation and with the deciphering of the actions, values, conditions, cyclical structures in the form of instructions that are usual for the textbooks on sewing, to create;Automatically generate a technical drawing of the future item of clothing in a monochrome two-dimensional format with the main outlines, seams, and intersections shown for use in the printed matter when publishing the cuts. The technical drawing can be corrected using the system resources if the designer would like to give it certain design properties;Automatically a sequence of steps for assembling the garment in the form of sewing instructions, including recommended fabric requirements, number of parts and the special features of their cutting, step sequence for assembling the parts, illustration of complicated technical steps (folding, folding), illustration by connecting smaller ones Copies of the cut parts, prepare;Generate a set of cutting patterns in the given format with the distribution in sheets for export and printing;Create a 3D print view of the technical drawing on the mannequin or without visualizing the mannequin (only the article).
    Each methodology of the pattern construction provides that the designer must above all set a point in a coordinate system. After that, lines, sections, arcs are drawn, straight lines and curves are drawn according to the given conditions. Each methodology provides a set of basic elements: a coordinate system, units of measurement, an accessible set of instruments and operations, output data (dimensional parameters, design task, sketch).
    The system basis is the calculation of the coordinates of the support points of the cutting patterns with the aid of the arithmetic formulas, where the values of the size features from the database can be used (stage 1071). The following can also be used in formulas: the numbers given by constants; Variables calculated according to the formulas; the lengths, distances, angular sizes that are determined between different elements. When adopting the methodology of building the cutting patterns, the following can be used as geometric objects:Points can be given by coordinates; tapped from another point for a given length at an angle; set as intersections of curves, sections, broken lines; determined by sensing the length along the section, arc, curve, broken line;the sections marked with two dots; - Sheets;Curves that are fixed with the start point, with the end point, with the tangent angle in the first point, with the tangent angle in the second point, with the bulge coefficient;broken lines, the sections, arcs. Connect curves in sequence.
    All geometric objects (values, points, sections, lines) have their identifiers (their designation) in the system, which uniquely identify this object. The identifier (the designation) represents a sequence of letters, digits and the symbol "_", which begins with a letter. Not only the letters of the English alphabet (Cyrillic script etc.) can be used in the context of the utf-8 coding, upper and lower case letters can be used, where there is no difference.
    When the calculation formulas for the coordinates are included in the program, the values of the size features can be used which are selected from the database generated in the system. The values of the size characteristics can be used in the formulas as variable numbers and are used in connection with the serial numbers (e.g. sz23, sz 1, sz56, sz114) or with the names given by the user (e.g. Umfl, Umft, Waistle) designated.
    In Fig. 9, an example of the construction of a skirt using the instructions described above is set forth: length = sz9-sz7; // the skirt length is set in knee height for each height eal9 = sz19 * 0.05; // the movement output on the hip line is 5 percent of the hip width width = sz19 * 0.5 + ea19; // the width of the article half is half the hip width + addition Pl = point (0,0); // the first point is set P2 = apply (PI, width, 0); // the width of the article half is tapped to the right of point P1 and point P2 is set P3 = apply (P1,1ength, 90); // the length of the article is taken down from point P1 and point P3 is set P4 = apply (P2, length, 90); // the length of the article is taken down from point P2 and point P3 is set centerback = line (P1, P3); centerfront = line (P2, P4); hem = line (P3, P4);
    A right-angled coordinate system is set in the system for specifying the coordinates of the geometric objects: point (0,0) - starting point, axis X horizontal axis directed from left to right (the first coordinate), axis Y vertical axis, directed downwards (the second coordinate). Such a direction of the axes is selected in connection with the fact that the development is usually made from top to bottom, and the selected direction of the Y axis ensures the function with the positive growth of the coordinates. The measuring unit on the axes is 1 cm. The positive direction of the redemption of angles is usually made - from the X axis to the Y axis, and by changing the direction of the Y axis, the positive direction of the angle change is directed clockwise.
    In the program language for sewing cuts, the system allows the modeling to be carried out with the aid of the instructions which set variables in sequence or which carry out certain actions (e.g. printing).
    All instructions are fulfilled in order if there is no clear indication of a change in the order of fulfillment of the instructions. When the program is running, the coordinates and the parameters of the variables are set one after the other. The direct determination of the variables is ensured with the help of the following keywords: point, line, circle, arc, curve, path (ie a point, a line, an arc, a curve of the 2nd degree, a curve of the 3rd degree, a broken line).
    It is possible not to set the variables directly, but to build them up with the help of the built-in functions (setting the points by overlapping the objects, transferring or rotating the objects). For each type of variable there is a set of permitted actions: intersection, parallel transfer, central and axial symmetry, rotation, expression. Practically each of these conversions can also be realized with the help of the coordinate calculation formulas, but the use of built-in functions simplifies the recording.
    The system consists of the successive establishment of the new geometrical objects - the variables whose coordinates are calculated according to the formulas or established by transformations. When fulfilling the program, the interpreter looks through the instructions one after the other and carries out the actions determined by them.
    On the whole, the operations of the offered language correspond to the operations that are carried out in the manual construction of the drawings. This consistency and the possibility of multiple quick “remodeling” of the drawing make the system user-friendly, and the formalism of the construction and the possible use of the database with the stored values allow the system to be used as a really serious automated workstation.
    Angular construction
    The angle marker between three points allows precise operations of rotation and imitation of the objects to be realized (closing the shoulder dart and forming the dart in the sleeve hole, imitating the objects to create a pan piece at an oblique angle, etc.)
    In the manual construction of the pattern, the designer works mostly with the linear values, if even when working with the darts it is not the dart angle but the dart shape in cm that is used - however, when transferring the darts with the cm -Indication happens the emergence of the rounding parameters in the given point. For example, if the dart shape is transferred by 7 cm from the shoulder to the nipple point in the side seam by the same 7 cm, we get a more curved surface because the side seam is closer to the nipple point. When using the instruction of the system for the transfer to the angle, the rounding parameters are fully preserved.
    Comments on the stages of implementation of the algorithm are included in the lines or a part of the lines starting with //, in the case where the comment consists of several lines, it must be based on a set of symbols / * and * / can be restricted.
    The comment can contain any text that contains the acts performed, references to the literature sources, reminders, copyright statements, advertising information. During the execution run of the interpreter for the creation of the master class in video format or the instruction about this proximity method in the form of an e-book, the comments are automatically included in the video sequence and in the text of the e-book by analyzing the algorithm lines .
    The basic elements of the language described above make it possible to perform almost any geometric transformation by calculating the coordinates, but in some cases the formulas for such a transformation will appear too cumbersome and incomprehensible. To improve visibility when writing some transformations and to make writing programs easier, built-in functions are introduced into the system language. With built-in functions, you can perform the most common transformations on objects (fragments of the contours of parts).
    Selected functions:
    Axial symmetry or symmetry in relation to section
    Symmetry is useful in modeling a collar when it is constructed in a "lay-on" shape and then displayed relative to the fold line. Often times, a completely symmetrical cutting pattern is required when modeling. You will receive a detailed drawing, e.g. For example, a front piece by displaying its outline relative to the center of the front piece.
    transmission
    This is useful when creating parts based on existing objects that need to be visualized in a separate area of the screen in order to avoid a large density of control points.move ((shoulder, armhole), o_transmission, (shoulder_k, armhole_k));
    In this case, the variables "shoulder" and "armhole" (e.g. a section and a curve) are transferred in the direction of the vector determined by the section "o_transmission", and their copies are called "shoulder" and "shoulder", respectively . "Armhole".
    Rotation around a specific point at a specific angle
    Rotation can be used in the construction and transfer of darts, in the construction of shoulder yokes, complex gatherings and pleats, and so on.
    compression
    When creating cutting patterns for fabrics (step 1072) with an increased group of extensibility (knitted textiles, in particular using Lycra), certain parts of the cutting patterns must be compressed in order to take their subsequent stretching into account. On the contrary, in some cases it is necessary to stretch the cutting patterns in order to take into account their subsequent compression due to the shrinkage of the fabric or the use of a processing technology. For such a modification of the cutting pattern, the system has a compression function in two directions. To specify the compression function, the compression center, the angle of the main compression direction, and the compression coefficients along the main direction and along the perpendicular direction are required.
    overlap
    Almost all of the construction of sewing patterns is based on the intersection. This can be the intersection of lines, arcs and sections in any combination. Often the intersection is used in modeling - drawing lines and determining their position on the contour of the sewing patterns, transferring darts, etc. To implement such actions, functions for intersecting directions, arcs, broken lines, curves and Sections provided.
    Darts
    The instruction “dart” is designed in such a way that it transfers the dart and the ends of the dart are designed depending on the processing method.
    wrinkle
    The instruction “fold” is intended for creating the depth of the fold from a specific point at a specific angle to a specific fold depth.
    cut off
    This instruction is used to shape the contours of a piece with curved lines and to draw those lines on a piece. For example, the underside of the shoulder yoke must be decorated with festoons or a line for a pattern border must be applied.
    Stretch out
    This instruction is intended for the conical stretching of parts when creating flounces, ruffles, details of collars and cuffs, etc.
    The system implementing the method 100 enables a build animation to be performed which can be used to verify the order in which the pivot points and transfer points were created, and is also a visual debugging tool. Another option for using the animation interpreter is to test cycles.
    With the option to animate cyclic constructions, it is possible to follow the entire step-by-step work of the cycle, determine the initial value of the selected parameter and determine the optimal increment in order to reduce the number of iterations.
    When building a raglan, for example, the angle of inclination of the rear and the front part of the arm is selected in one cycle. When debugging a cycle, it is possible to track how the tilt angle changes, determine angle increments to find that angle with a certain accuracy, and reduce the number of iterations.
    After the cutting pattern algorithm has been created, a process of automated calculation of the sewing of a garment takes place on its basis, in which:Sections of the cutting patterns that are to be reinforced with adhesive tape are marked.Parts that were created with the methods "Fold", "Gather" and "Shrink" are marked.The cutting pattern algorithm is analyzed to determine graphic objects that have been created using instructions for symmetry, transfer, picking equal lengths, and dividing areas into two cutting patterns. At this stage, the program code of the cutting patterns is analyzed in order to isolate pairs (triples, etc.) of objects that may have the same properties.The resulting pairs of sections on two-dimensional surfaces of the pattern are also checked for compliance with the support points and lengths of the seams. These can be lines, curves, broken lines and sections of similar graphic objects between the set marks.The required sequence of sewing the parts is determined, including combining several separate sewing patterns before sewing on the back, closing the darts before sewing on the belt, etc. The principle of sequence selection is to maximally simplify the sewing process by laying out the seams in this way that the parts do not have to be connected at an uncomfortable angle, as well as two parts with the third, if there is a common seam (first two parts are connected, then the third part); Seams are straightened if possible, the possibility of turning the parts after sewing the lining is checked and so on.The system user has the option of changing the sequence of operations if there are variations in the preparatory sewing of the parts before critical operations (e.g. he can first close darts on the shoulder yoke, then sew them on to the bottom of the skirt or sew on the darts and the bottom of the skirt and then close the darts of the shoulder yoke). The system controls the sequence of operations and returns an error if, for example, the user wants to sew a belt before closing the skirt dart.the sequence of operations in the form of a sewing algorithm is recorded in a file or entered into the database, for example: gluing (transfer_tapping, backing_tapping);Crease (shoulder yoke);Sew on (a_p3_p4 (front part), a_p3_p4 (back part);Fold down (I_p I_p4 (front part);
    The steps for processing a button placket, sewing the zipper, the slit processing and some steps for sewing the lining are automatically entered. The sequence of operations is recorded automatically with the functionality implemented by the system and is also saved in the background mode during processing by the user, for example in the event of a network failure, a communication interruption, etc.
    On the basis of the cutting pattern algorithm for 2D printouts, the interpreter also marks the sequence of the processes. For example, the same text is applied along the side seams on the front left and the back on the right, for example "seam 21" along the edges to be sewn, markings are made at the beginning and at the end of the seam, for example (N21 >>) and (<< N21).
    This increases the visibility of the resulting cutting patterns and makes it easier to sew on parts.
    On the basis of the cutting pattern algorithm and the sewing algorithm, using the lexical interpreter of the instruction, a sewing instruction is automatically created in the language selected by the user and provided with images. The language can then be changed and the system translates automatically.
    When creating instructions for sewing an item of clothing, images of the collection of the parts can optionally be enclosed.
    Parts of the instructions can contain:3D image of the finished garmentTechnical drawing of the garment in accordance with the standards of the clothing industryRecommended fabric (tensile strength, shrinkage)Parts directoryThe recommended fabric consumption for a given sizeThe order of collecting the garment.
    The properties of the recommended substance and additional materials are determined by the system as a result of the analysis of the algorithm, includingthe presence of the instruction "shrink" with negative coefficients,Type of size / age group (children's clothing),the numerical and percentage estimate of the movement output, numerical characteristics and the presence of incisions in anthropometric areas (neck and collar width, zippers or buttons or incision in this area, total length of the skirt, incisions or slits, etc.).
    On the basis of the determined extensibility of the fabric, a check is carried out on the basis of the fabric type file and the corresponding positions are selected. A note on the type of fibers can be given (e.g. natural fabrics are recommended for clothing for toddlers and elementary school children.)
    The cutting pattern algorithm is analyzed by the system for the presence of buttons, zippers, hooks, reinforcing bars, etc. This information is also contained in the text of the instruction. In the absence of any indication of the folding process, the algorithm calculates the length of the bias tape. The length of zippers and similar elements is calculated and displayed automatically. As a result, the text is written into the instruction in one of the selected system languages, e.g. For example: Recommended fabric: tricotage, jersey, clothing fabrics with elastane, stretch gabardine, etc. with a stretchability of at least 5% made of synthetic, mixed or natural fibers. You will also need: tape, lining fabric, zipper (at least 25.6 cm), 1 button. Optional: Bias tape 1.5 cm wide and 37.5 cm long for processing the area “Seam21” between the markings (N21 >>) and (<< N21) for the details “Front part”.
    Measurement units depend on the customer's settings for the pattern, i.e. if the preference is set to "inches" when ordering the kit, there will be a 10.1 inch zipper etc. in the above example.
    The parts list is created on the basis of the analysis of the cutting pattern algorithm, specifying the number of parts, the need to cut them out in a mirrored manner, and the type of fabric. Next to the parts list is a miniature view of a rational location of parts on a standard width fabric. The details of the site plan are marked with letters. The letters are also given in brackets next to the name of the part in the list. Figure 10-11 shows an example of displaying the parts based on the created marker algorithm.
    The recommended material consumption is created automatically and carried out in several iterations by maximal compression of curvilinear surfaces. Specific lengths are calculated, e.g. B. the main fabric should be 45 inches wide by 2 feet long and so on. Units of measurement depend on the customer's choice and can be changed at any time.
    The garment collection sequence is created using the lexical interpretation of the sewing algorithm and the use of a database of sewing terms in multiple languages. All actions are accompanied by illustrations, illustrations can be deactivated if desired.
    FIG. 12 shows an example of generating a collection sequence for an item of clothing. Each line of the sewing algorithm is analyzed by the lexical interpreter. A cutting pattern can also be referenced if seam allowance adjustment is required, and so on.
    The designer can complete the instructions, but not edit the order and bold elements, since this information is necessary for the display of illustrations and is calculated according to the algorithm.
    In step 108, the reference points and patterns of the garment are recalculated to identify the intersections of the garment elements and the coincidence of the lengths of the combinable seams and details of the garment.
    This step is implemented with special formulas, in which, in addition to constants and variables - dimensional features, parameters of other geometric objects, including coordinates of points, angles of sections, angles of tangent curves, lengths of sections, curves, arcs, fractional Can use lines.
    This enables:Exact joining of corners of different parts of clothing (e.g. when the armhole of the shirt is formed at the bottom by two curves on which the side seam of the garment fits at a certain angle the section formed by the two curves will be smooth and the side seam will be perpendicular to it;Precisely align the length of curved seams, flounces and sleeve heads in relation to a specific section of the armhole.Automatic marking of the desired length from the beginning of intersection curves with different directions;Automatic setting of control points on cutting patterns (e.g. using the lengths of the curves of the upper part of the product to mark points on a straight belt);Verification of the robustness of the product in different sizes.
    The system also makes it possible to carry out an animation of the creation with the animation interpreter, with which the order of creation of points, rotation and transmission can be checked. This is a visual debugging tool. Another use of the animation interpreter is the processing of cycles.
    With the selected option for animation of cyclical constructions, one can follow the entire step-by-step work of the cycle, determine the initial value of the selected parameter and determine the optimal increment in order to reduce the number of iterations. For example, when building a raglan, the angle of inclination of the back and front of the sleeves is selected in one cycle. Debugging a cycle can track how the tilt angle changes, determine what angle increment to set to find that angle with a certain accuracy, and reduce the number of iterations.
    In step 109 it is checked whether the item of clothing fits correctly on the generated three-dimensional mannequin. In general, an item of clothing is collected at the seams described and written into the file as a three-dimensional surface with holes. The three-dimensional surface of the garment is placed on the mannequin taking into account the stretchability of the fabric and the force of gravity in relation to the support belt: 1) shoulders 2) spinus iliac bones. It is checked that there is no overlap between the surface of the garment and the surface of the mannequin (the garment is too tight, there is inward overlap along the straps, the circumference of the garment is insufficient for the neck, arms, legs to pass freely through) and waist), whether the slot is small enough that the item of clothing does not fall off the support belt (shoulder or pelvic belt depending on the item of clothing), whether a size from the overall size range does not fall out
    In step 110, a review of the construction of the marker is performed over a wide range of dimensions. This test is carried out on a gradation basis. The gradation can be checked on a marker grid, and the reproduction of the marker is not done by enlarging a detail, but by recalculating the algorithm for new dimensions from the database. In this way it can be determined whether a size is out of the general overall size range, whether there are construction errors or whether all sizes correspond to the configuration of the designed garment. An analysis is made of the possibility of making a garment for a certain standard size that is accepted in the industry or determined by the user. For example, a garment can be made in sizes 34 to 48, but cannot be made for the size 50 due to the specifics of the algorithm.
    When creating a marker network, the system displays the numerical values with variable graduated sizes. All text can be printed. It can then be analyzed how different values change during the gradation and, if necessary, appropriate corrections can be made to the algorithm.
    In step 111, the cutting patterns are exported into a machine-readable format selected by the user. A set of cutting patterns can also be exported in a predetermined format and these can be divided into sheets for printing.
    The user can transmit the received cutting patterns to another user via a data network or to a remote server in the trading platform module.
    The system that implements the method 100 also enables a master class to be created according to the sewing technique used to manufacture the garment. The designer proceeds to the creation of the master class after the cutting pattern algorithm has been created. To start the recording, the designer activates the "Master Class" function in the Pattern Editor window.
    First, a frame for the name of the master class is created in one of the proposed templates, which the designer can select in his office. To do this, the background image, margins, preferred font, font size and font color for headings and other styles, the color of the comment field and the author's data are specified.
    The marker algorithm is also analyzed and the dimensions used in the construction process are determined (a list of szXX constants in the algorithm text is created). The screen saver "Required dimensions."
    Mini-video clips are formed on the basis of a database and illustrate the process of taking these dimensions. The video clips contain a schematic representation of the body structure of the corresponding size group, the designation of the dimension, a complete description of the dimension, the additional tools required to carry out the measurements, their position on the body, animation of the dimension on the body.
    The lines of the marker generation algorithm are consistently analyzed. When calculating the movement outputs eaXX and additional variables between the instructions of the algorithm or within the functions of the algorithm, the explanation of the calculations is displayed in the animation frame or in individual frames if the length of the resulting text exceeds 500 characters.
    The instructions used in the design process are described in terms that are common to the paper designed and skilled designer. The lexical interpreter creates the text according to the rules described in the system and outputs it under the animation window of the algorithm construction in the comment field. The designer comments in the text of the algorithm are displayed immediately before the animation of a particular instruction. The duration of the animation of a certain construction is calculated depending on the length of the text in characters.
    An example of the algorithm:p1 = point (2.2);eal8 = 1;p2 = apply (p 1, sz26 * 0.5.90);// The side seam is in the middle between the back waist point and the front waist point.p3 = apply (pl, sz18 * 0.25 + ea18.5);Back belt = curve (p1, p3,0,10,1);Middle_Seam_Back = line (pl, p2);ea20 = 2;p4 = apply (p2, sz20 * 0.5 + ea20.0);Lower part = line (p4, p2);p5 = apply (p4, sz25 * 0.3.90);Side seam = line (p4, p5);Zipper = curve (3, 5, 50, 90, 1);marker = (p5,4,180,1,2);sa0 = lcmsaw = 2cm,back = pattern (name = "back part", sym = 0, fold = (central seam_back), contour = (belt_back, zip, lower side seam, lower part, central_naht_back),seam = sa0,seam_special = (lower part = saw), grain = (central seam_back);
    The above-mentioned master class for sewing a product can also be designed in the form of an e-book, which can also contain relevant illustrations and animations. The format of the book can be: PDF, EPUB, MOBI, FB2, DOC and others.
    Referring to Fig. 13, there is shown an overall view of the system 300 performing actions for designing garments. The mentioned system 300 includes central server 310 which performs data processing, data warehouse 320, web resource 330 and user devices 301-304. The registered method 100 for the planning of garments is carried out on the server 310 and offers the main functionality through web resource 330. The method 100 developed above using the system 300 can be implemented in the form of a cloud platform with online access to the functionality using a transmission medium such as the Internet. In detail, method 100 can also be exercised in the LAN network when exercised with a purpose-oriented device that will perform the basic arithmetic function.
    Server device 310 generally represents standard EDVA, which contains one or more processors, devices and input / output interfaces and storage means (main memory, permanent storage, HDD, SSD, etc.). Steps of the method 100, which are developed in the present application above, can be stored in EDVA in a computer-readable manner and executed with the aid of processing with one or more processors, in which steps are implemented in which:to receive and edit the processing of the user request for the design of a garment;to enter general dimensions of a figure for whom the garment is made;the correctness of the entered general dimensions is checked by comparing the entered values with the database of sample dimensions;based on the dimensions, a three-dimensional mannequin is constructed;measurements are recalculated based on the model of the three-dimensional mannequin;the three-dimensional mannequin model is used to evaluate the characteristics of the body structure;the algorithm of the pattern of the garment is made, containing the step-by-step constructions of the said garment, the automatic execution of which is used to graph the garment, determining the coordinates of the main points of the garment according to the dimensions;based on the mentioned coordinates of the main points of the pattern of the garment constructed;you mark sticks, reference lines and text comments on patterns;Recalculated major points and patterns of the garment to show averages of the elements of the garment and meeting of the lengths of combinable seams and details of the garment;Checked the fit of the garment to the mannequin mentioned;Checked design of sewing patterns for wide range of sizes and body lengths;Makes cutting patterns for one or more sizes computer readable.
    System users 300 operate by registering on web resource 330 where an area is created in data warehouse 320 for each user to store information.
    According to FIG. 14, web resource 330 can also exchange data with social network 340. Users 301-304 can use social network 340 to share patterns, sewing instructions or master classes they have created.
    System 300 also realizes a platform for selling the patterns, instructions, and master classes created by user 301-304.
    15 shows the scheme of the web resource 330, which includes data exchange with data warehouse 320, project planning module 331, information data exchange module 332 and trading center module 333.
    Data warehouse 320 includes database of user accounts 3201, database of sewing patterns 3202, and database of sewing instructions and master classes 3203.
    When starting work with the clothing planning system 300, each user participates in the registration procedure with web resource 330. The resource is accessed using a standard web browser installed on user devices. User devices are understood to mean both stationary means such as computers of the IBM PC or Apple Macintosh type, as well as mobile devices such as notebooks, smartphones, tablets, phablets.
    After users log on to the system 300, information about their accounts is stored in the database 3201. In addition, users who have created cutting patterns store these in the database 3202 for further use, for example, printing out the sheets for sewing an item of clothing or transferring the cutting patterns to the trading center module 333.
    The sewing instructions and master classes created by the users are also stored in a corresponding database 3203.
    The trading center module 333 represents a platform for users that ensures the procedure for handing over created cutting patterns, sewing instructions and master classes. This platform is based on a standard online shop in which users can purchase the goods they need using electronic means of payment.
    The trading center module 333 makes it possible to download necessary information from the users' personal cabinet that they intend to realize.
    The trading center module can also contain its own data warehouse, in which it can contain the cutting patterns, sewing instructions and video master classes created by users.
    Project planning module 331 uses special modules to implement steps in the construction of an item of clothing according to method 100 and all of the additional processes that have been described above. Hardware and software resources of the system 300 enable the full implementation of the method 100 as well as fulfillment with the help of the mentioned modules of the functions such as creation of sewing instructions and interactive master classes, recalculation of the cutting pattern sizes with recalculation of the cutting pattern sizes, video recording of the execution of the algorithm, calculation of the necessary material consumption is to create garment and / or detail of the garment, among others.
    权利要求:
    Claims (20)
    [1]
    1. A method for the interactive design of garments using a computer, in which:- the computer receives a user request for planning an item of clothing (101);- body measurements of a body shape for which the garment is created are entered into the computer (102);- The computer compares the body measurements entered with sample measurements stored in a database (103);- The computer constructs a virtual three-dimensional mannequin on the basis of the entered body measurements (104);- The computer recalculates the body dimensions on the basis of the three-dimensional mannequin (105), the computer recognizing body dimensions which can change depending on the position of the soft tissue, and prescribes points other than fixed skeletal points for the three-dimensional mannequin;the computer analyzes specific features of the body shape for which the item of clothing is created on the basis of the three-dimensional mannequin, in particular posture and / or inclination of the shoulders (106);- the computer constructs the garment step by step with automatic execution of a pattern algorithm (107),Where the computer creates a graphic construction of the item of clothing and determines positions of support points of the item of clothing as a function of the body measurements entered (1071) and• wherein the computer constructs cutting patterns for the garment on the basis of the positions of the support points of the garment;- the computer makes markings, notches, reference lines and / or text comments on the pattern;- The computer recalculates the support points of the garment and the pattern in order to find intersection points of clothing elements and to find a meeting of combinable seams and details of the garment (108);- The computer verifies a fit of the garment for the three-dimensional mannequin (109);- the computer checks the construction of the patterns for several clothing sizes (110);- the patterns are exported in a machine-readable format for one or more clothing sizes (111).
    [2]
    2. The method according to claim 1,characterized,that the sample measurements are selected from a database which contains the entirety of the measurements, which are distributed according to gender groups.
    [3]
    3. The method according to claim 2,characterized,that the body measurements are compared with a specific gender group.
    [4]
    4. The method according to claim 1,characterized,that a three-dimensional mannequin is also created based on a photo of the person.
    [5]
    5. The method according to claim 4,characterized,that the body dimensions of the human body are automatically calculated based on the photo.
    [6]
    6. The method according to claim 1,characterized,that in addition every step of the cutting pattern algorithm is processed by a lexical interpreter, which converts the steps of the cutting pattern algorithm into textual comments.
    [7]
    7. The method according to claim 6,characterized,that the text comments are automatically translated into one or more languages.
    [8]
    8. The method according to claim 1,characterized,that a film sequence is also created, each video image of this film sequence corresponding to a step of the cutting pattern algorithm.
    [9]
    9. The method according to claim 1,characterized,that a parts list is also created, the parts of which belong to the item of clothing mentioned.
    [10]
    10. The method according to claim 9,characterized,that the parts list is created using a computer analysis of the pattern algorithm of the pattern of the garment.
    [11]
    11. The method according to claim 1,characterized,that an additional amount of material is calculated which is necessary to manufacture the item of clothing and / or a detail of the item of clothing.
    [12]
    12. The method according to claim 1,characterized,that additional information is attached to the pattern.
    [13]
    13. The method according to claim 1,characterized,that the cutting pattern is divided into one sheet or several sheets with nominal dimensions during export.
    [14]
    14. System for interactive design of garments with:at least one processor and at least one memory which stores the instructions to be fulfilled by the processor which, when fulfilled, cause the processor to carry out the method according to claim 1.
    [15]
    15. System according to claim 14,characterized,that there is also a trading platform module, this trading platform module being implemented on the basis of a standard online shop in which users can purchase necessary goods using electronic means of payment.
    [16]
    16. System according to claim 14,characterized,that there is also a module for the creation of interactive sewing instructions for garments based on the pattern algorithm of the pattern.
    [17]
    17. System according to claim 16,characterized,that the sewing instructions are created with the help of a lexical interpreter, which converts the steps of the cutting pattern algorithm into text comments.
    [18]
    18. System according to claim 14,characterized,that there is also a module for a video recording of the execution of the cutting pattern algorithm.
    [19]
    19. System according to claim 14,characterized,that a module is present for a calculation of the amount of material required to create the garment and / or a detail of the garment.
    [20]
    20. System according to claim 15,characterized,that the trading center module contains a database of the created patterns and interactive instructions.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    WO2017213539A1|2017-12-14|
    US20190008226A1|2019-01-10|
    RU2635294C1|2017-11-09|
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    法律状态:
    2019-09-30| NV| New agent|Representative=s name: NOVAGRAAF INTERNATIONAL SA, CH |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    RU2016122939A|RU2635294C1|2016-06-09|2016-06-09|Method and system of interactive creation of clothing items|
    PCT/RU2016/000364|WO2017213539A1|2016-06-09|2016-06-15|Method and system for interactively creating garments|
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